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Restoring White Lego
How to restore sun damaged white Lego? yes It's that question again!
We'll I've done some homework.
I've used hydrogen peroxide up to 12% with Oxy plus stain remover and left outside for nearly a week, although not much sunshine!
But I've had great success, not so much with the grey and tan though!
I also have 4 White Flexible Hose 8.5L with Tabless Removable Ends (64230) that I got in a Used (good) condition on Brick Owl, the hoses are in all yellowed, some more than others.
So far with these I haven't had any success with the hydrogen peroxide. I'm guessing it's a different type of plastic?
Has anyone got any alternatives or links to solutions for this problem? Thanks.
Don't really want to spend £40 plus getting 4 of these in new condition!
We'll I've done some homework.
I've used hydrogen peroxide up to 12% with Oxy plus stain remover and left outside for nearly a week, although not much sunshine!
But I've had great success, not so much with the grey and tan though!
I also have 4 White Flexible Hose 8.5L with Tabless Removable Ends (64230) that I got in a Used (good) condition on Brick Owl, the hoses are in all yellowed, some more than others.
So far with these I haven't had any success with the hydrogen peroxide. I'm guessing it's a different type of plastic?
Has anyone got any alternatives or links to solutions for this problem? Thanks.
Don't really want to spend £40 plus getting 4 of these in new condition!
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be interested in an answer on those hoses - the ones on my copy of market street have the same problem from age (not sunlight) - TLG CS actually told me to expose them to direct sunlight!
I'm always looking out for a quick, easy and successful method to restoring white Lego, but all I come across is the same method you've tried. Have loads of parts to try it out on, so maybe when the summer arrives I'll give it a go!
Does the process restore to a Lego white, or is there a noticeable shade difference?
Later parts [post 2002ish when LEGO slowly started using dye, and stopped using coloured ABS pellets] can apparently be cured with just UV light as LEGO suggest [as the fire retardant bromine was replaced], but I've not had much success with that.
https://www.facebook.com/Design7bricks/posts/1097307313748728
Good results considering the lack of sun.
@Jay37 check my link above. There is a slight difference and the parts might be slightly looser.
@Graham I think it's really common with this part.
Found this online but I think the hose is slightly different.
>Tires and elastic materials found in some LEGO sets are manufactured from Styrene-Butadiene Styrene (SBS), a material commonly found in vehicle mud guards and shoe soles.<
Has anyone tried Retr0brite? it's not that much different to what I've tried.
If it's 100% rubber bleach should work, or stuff for cleaning whitewall tyres. I'm sure there's more than pure rubber in LEGO though, it's pretty durable.
http://www.brickowl.com/help/item-conditions
For Sellers
Used parts may need to be washed as all Lego parts for sale should be clean. No Lego part bought at Brick Owl should ever arrive sticky or dirty. All Lego items sold on Brick Owl should not be so damaged that they loose their function and can no longer fit together with other Lego parts.
I had a couple of dirty parts arrive the other day, the store in question handled it quickly and is now sending replacements.
I might try hydrogen peroxide directly, although don't think it will work on the hose part.
LEGO Flexible Hose 8.5L (64230) White
Tried leaving one in baking soda, water and a splash of vinegar overnight, didn't see any difference.
@TheSkirrid might try bleach next!
Hydrogen peroxide will only be able to clean off surface grime or residue. For discoloration due to age, etc, I would think a vinegar mix would would be the best solution but that would only need 30-60 minutes of soak. Anything that can't be done with either of those methods will probably be pretty involved long soaks and some time under UV lights - and even then that will probably only help white parts.
I have tried a lot of methods for my own collection as much is aged, these days I keep it deprived off sunlight and heat. (Heat stops pieces separating when parts are assembled and risks them distorting to - actually just recovered a set where 20 or so parts had been damaged, all the pieces were bent and to be had to be thrown away!).
The container, percentage of hydrogen peroxide, and quality of the part all seem to be a factor.
Make sure the item is clean, any dirt and other stuff attached to the part will ruin it, I have lost some old pieces as they have mottled, due to not being cleaned properly.
Percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide is only 3% WITHOUT additives, I have heard the additives can be risky! This can be bought cheaply in the medical aisle in our food stores....so cheap and plentiful if needed.
I have tried all sorts of containers, but the best one I have found and works perfectly is a disposable lunch container, like from take away shops. Glass and other containers do not work and seem to halt or slow down the process. Items in glass have taken days to change colour for some reason, and I suspect temperature is an issue too or that glass may change the light source in some manner.
Our temperature ranges from 1 degree Celsius to 45 degree Celsius and I do not worry about the day temperature too much, only if it is going to actually rain, I am not worried about clouds either.
I buy the containers new, again from the supermarket in the food aisles, and fill enough to cover the part/s, I then leave them outside from before sunup to after dark (of course with the lid of the container on - otherwise the Hydrogen Peroxide evaporates). When I collect the box, the parts are hidden due to condensation of liquid on the lid, so direct sunlight is not the only factor, and as mentioned below, both sides change colour - hidden and exposed.
The next day, or that night or when I get a chance, I wash them in water and soak for a further day in clean water to ensure any reactions are halted. (I generally only leave in the sun for a day, and then bring inside and leave until I get chance the next day or a day or two later, there appears to be no affect once the container is out of the sun).
I do not know why, and I have some scientific background, but when using other containers or a higher percentage the effect does not work as well. And as mentioned above the part needs to be cleaned, I always soak all my parts in hand sanitiser and water for a few days prior to doing anything with and then air drying. This ensures that the parts have been disinfected and dry prior to storage or soaking.
With the above method both sides are returned to their original colours even if only one side is exposed to the sun, and the age and moulding of parts is not a factor.
And finally marked items are not affected. I recently turned the scroll tile from the early 6020 from dirty brown back to pure white - so nice to have cleaned up and added to collection.
The thing I like about bathing the items in the peroxide is that they feel so clean afterwards, and the feeling that they just come straight out of the box rather than been lying around forever...however scratches and other physical signs of use will still remain - so the method is waste of time on ill used parts.
Castle
P.S. I am not so keen on selling recovered parts, I should think one should be careful about doing so!