Master Builders: building LEGO furniture

Stragus

Hello Master Builders! Here's something I have wanted to do for a while, but before I actually start physically building, I really could use other opinions...

Let's pick a standard little table:

High resolution here

The legs are reinforced by technic beams all the way through, and similarly attached to the top surface, so I'm not worried about that part.

On the other hand, the current table surface is worrying:

High resolution here

Ideally, we should use very long supporting arches. Besides arches between table legs, extending arches up to the center of the table (coming from both directions) would really consume a ton of bricks. It would also be very heavy (and expensive!). Alternatively, a double layer of 6x8 technic centers (with 0.66 spacing between them), with vertical technic beams connecting the layers, could perhaps work?...

Or I could bring out the heavy artillery:

My builder ethic only lets me use the aluminum when it isn't visible, so the underside would have to be covered. We would still need aluminum beams extending in both directions, meaning a lot of them and a thick surface... unless the aluminum in one direction is being combined with supporting arches in just the other direction? Or some other combination of techniques?

What do you think? What would you suggest for a robust table surface?

Thanks!

And here's the top view if anyone is curious:

High resolution here

Lawrence

I don't have any helpful advice, but I've also wanted to build a lego table. I couldn't think how to make a strong coffee table. A bedside table may have a small enough top to work.

Jiries

Don't have plans to make furniture but plan to make a 3 floor Cypriot house with balconies on the 2nd and 3rd floor. I know that a 2x4 bricks to go along the balcony wall would crash down due to the weight so I found a way to use 1x6x5 white panels and face each other to make a very light wall across it and 1x16 Technic or plain brick to support the balcony floor that will be covered by white plates for ceiling and 2x2 tan tiles for the floors. Will have real windows with sliding glass and 1-3 fold shutters. If those who had been to Cyprus and see those lovely shutters they have in 1x1 which you see many in France and Italy, 1x2 or 2x2 or 2x3 or 1x3 fold shutters and door shutters again the same as the window with max 3x4 fold shutters. It make a nice character for having them on the windows.

Some parts from the PAB walls was good like 2x4 and 2x8 white bricks, 1x1x5 and 1x2x5 bricks, 1x6x5 white panels, 1x2 trans clear bricks and 4x6 white plates. I wish they have 2x2 tan and white tiles.

Markyd7

I was thinking you should look at bridges for some inspiration.
What's the size of your table?
I would take the longest dimension and try building a section of table to that length.

brickfeverparts

Great project @Stragus !

I think you need to make a square strong beam-like frame, to wich you connect the 4 stands.
That part should be very strong and easily movable, then you can think of many ways to build the table itselve, and think of a way to connect it so it doesnt fall or slide off.

To move the table, you can easily remove the top from the frame and stands.

Now you need to think of many variables, as to make one build, wich is nearly impossible to do.

Cheers, George

Markyd7

There's a few tables out there on the Internet.
http://www.ufunk.net/en/design/lego-table-design/
http://www.holedesigns.com/lego-table-2012

Giant bricks could be made of lego. I think someone on BO is already selling plans for these.
http://houseofanais.onsugar.com/create-your-own-lego-looking-furniture-setups-15216926

My favourite.
http://legoexpress.tumblr.com/post/1055958114/pashminasandpeace-dear-lego-boy-can-you-make

Stragus

@Markyd7 Dimensions are 70cm x 55cm, though I would aim for larger if I was more confident in the robustness of the structure.

That bridge picture would suggest the "double layers" of 6 x 8 technic bricks. To reinforce with diagonal beams (and simultaneously connect the two layers with system bricks/plates), it would imply a distance of 80 LDU (10 plates). Something like this?

While a angle of acos(0.6) instead of acos(0.8) would produce a distance of 60 LDU between the layers, making it "impossible" to connect the layers by system bricks.

Well, that looks strong in both directions although also very thick... I guess I'll have to do some physical experiments.

@Lawrence If you aren't a purist, another way would be to use a glass panel as the top surface, contained within and supported by a "frame" of Lego. It sure would be a lot easier to clean. I'm also considering that option...

Stragus

@BrickFeverParts Interesting idea to focus on a very strong square supporting frame, to which the legs are simply attached. I was indeed worried about trying to lift the table, with the four heavy legs pulling down... It seems wise to make them detachable.

@Markyd7 Eheh, these are quite a different style. For me, everything must be reinforced by technic beams. I would never build anything where just the clutch of studs is holding everything!

Edit: After thinking some more, I really need to make the legs detachable. Thanks @BrickFeverParts!

brickfeverparts

Your welcome

If your gonna start this, and you are in need of technic pins, let me know, i can give you a few Thousand if you pay for shipping!

George

Markyd7

That looks good, I'm sure it could be more simple! Although I guess you want to use whatever you have in stock or can get hold of easily.
Just had a quick play with mostly 2x4 bricks and 6x6 plates. It's what I had to use in bulk.
The gap is 70cm. The weight on top is 3kg. 2nd photo shows the flex.

Stragus

Impressive testing @Markyd7! That approach does seem to work pretty well after all... A big solid block that's 6 studs thick, eh. That's around 500 bricks if I estimate correctly, and therefore some 1.15kg; it looks manageable even for a complete table.

I sometimes overlook that studs can be put under stress, I always and systematically use technic to bear any kind of load. I'll being doing some testing as well over here.

Thanks!

Markyd7

Thanks.
It's 4 studs thick in places and 6 where I used the 6x6 plates.
Other size plates would work, just need to beak up the repeating join pattern which is where the flex comes from. I guess 2x6 or larger would help a lot.
Look forward to seeing your tests.

Lawrence

I was thinking you could also totally cheat. I have a coffee table from ikea, you could just wrap the legs and table in lego, so they would bear no load, but it would look like Lego. It does defeat the point a bit though.

unbrickable

you coul make some simulations of the construction in solidworks or comsol. then you will know how the parts will react to load / stress /strain

Stragus

It has been a long while, but here's finally an update on the Lego table!




I'm posting images just before the final touch, as they show the construction somewhat more. The Lego purist solutions for a strong surface that I could see were going to be absurdly heavy, so I opted for 4 beams of aluminum. It follows @BrickFeverParts 's suggestion of the top being detached from the legs.

The graphics card is there just to give a sense of scale. Every geek knows the size of a graphics card, right?

Thanks for all the tips!

Lawrence

Well done, so how well are the legs attached to the top, as in, if you were to knock the table a bit, what would happen?

Stragus

The table won't be knocked over. I think it's easier to show why with a picture:

High resolution here

Lawrence

Excellent, that was always my concern with furniture like that, but it seems you've got a good solution there

Markyd7

Looking good!

Stragus

And it's done!


But my ideas of now building a replacement for the dining table are facing domestic opposition.

pumbaugh

looks really fantastic! Just curious, what do you think the cost(material, not including research and development) in something like that is? Including your special aluminum pieces.

Stragus

@pumbaugh I tried to keep the cost down. I used Dark Purple 1x2 tiles simply because it's the cheapest way to cover a surface with tiles. Under the tiles, I used similarly unloved Dark Tan plates. The black double inverted slopes (3676) just came back in production in 2015, so the price should drop (I bought these used instead).

The 6 month average sale price by quantity of all the parts is $630. But many parts are in low demand, so an experienced and patient buyer can get it all for about $400. And if you are a seller and dig from your own inventory, surely the cost can drop to $300 or so.

The aluminum adds a $50 or so. It's not that bad overall... although my estimates for a dining table are rather scary.

sophiesbrickshop

That looks amazing! Part table part futuristic sculpture when I look at it

Markyd7

Not sure the last image you posted is working?

Stragus

@Markyd7 Oh? Perhaps it's due to the high resolution...

High res: http://www.bricksync.net/legotable004.jpg
Low res: http://www.bricksync.net/legotable004small.jpg

Markyd7

Maybe because I was viewing on ipad?
It's fine on PC.
Looks Amazing.
You should create a video on how you made it and post on Youtube. Try and make a little cash out of it!

DagsBricks

Since all the legs are separate from the top, does it wobble much? I assume the 8 outriggers on each leg minimize that but given tolerances in the pieces I imagine there's a little wiggle.

Stragus

@DagsBricks There was some wobble in the initial version. I later extended these "knobs" sliding inside the legs, now 80 LDU thick (10 plates) reinforced with vertical technic beams. It feels rather stable.